Pink Shirt, Pink Hat, and the Western Kentucky BBQ Belt

I grew up in the outskirts of Henderson County in Western Kentucky. For as long as I can remember, every Christmas, birthday, or day worth celebrating had a central staple: Thomason’s BBQ Baked Beans. When I tell y’all it’s a special local business, I mean it. But, don’t just take my word for it.

A small, unpretentious joint, Thomason’s BBQ sells 37,000 pounds of BBQ Baked Beans a year. Their beans and BBQ sauce have been served on the PGA tour, the Kentucky Derby, and the Kentucky Bourbon Festival. Thomason’s BBQ was even named #2 best BBQ in the state of Kentucky by Southern Living Magazine.

Kevin Gibson took over Thomason’s three years ago for his father, who took over the local business when Gibson was in the eighth grade. Gibson had been traveling the world with a homebase in Louisville, where he had an immensely successful 22 year career at Humana. Eager to bring his skills and expanded worldview back home, Gibson was quickly reminded that “change is really hard here.”

While Gibson was referencing introducing new sauces and other small changes, he was also referencing that he is a gay business owner in a town that “doesn’t really have a gay scene.” When Gibson took over the restaurant, he knew the food was known as a traditional BBQ restaurant, and that “traditional” had certain implications locally. 

Kevin Gibson was the first donor to Henderson Pride, which had their first Pride celebration in June of 2024. His $5,000 donation and presence on the board were in his personal capacity, not representing his business. Gibson voices struggle here, because he wants to proudly demonstrate that Thomason’s BBQ is gay-owned. 

“Just because I put a pride flag up doesn’t mean I’m pushing an agenda down your throat. It’s celebrating who I am and that I own a great business,” Gibson says.

Still, the “traditional” history of the business and city have presented challenges. Gibson says he is deeply aware of how he is perceived, and it’s simply not fair. But, in the three years he has run the business, Gibson has got more comfortable in embracing all aspects of himself. 

Gibson has used his successful corporate background to “try some new things” at the already-successful business his father poured so much into. Gibson developed “KG’s sweet sauce” with his friend Terra Nelson, who has been on Food Network and is currently the General Manager and Pastry Chef at Butcher and Bee in Nashville. Gibson also developed Damon’s heat rub, named after his brother, and Amanda’s tangy marinade, named after his sister. 

To let customers try these new offerings, Gibson developed a gift box with the new items and a dish towel designed by his brother, who does all of their apparel. This was well received by the community, and they have kept some of the family-centered items available for purchase.

Additionally, Gibson rebranded, created a website and Instagram, and did more marketing and partnerships – including Bourbon BBQ sauce served in shot glasses with the Thomason’s logo at the Kentucky BBQ and Bourbon Festival.

While Gibson brought his evolved self home and is attempting to subtly bring that spirit to the BBQ joint, Gibson is also committed to keeping some things the same. 

Thomason’s BBQ is in one of the poorest parts of Henderson. To keep food accessible, they do not take credit cards, and they try to keep costs low for the neighborhood. Gibson wants to serve everyone.

“We get rich people. We get poor people. We get Black people. We get white people. We get trans people. We get gay people. We get straight people. We get all walks of life here, and I’m a firm believer that BBQ transcends who you are. Because BBQ is just good food,” Gibson says.

He continues to say that many of their customers are very religious, Trump supporters, and Republicans. Gibson says his identity has not been an issue for the most part. 

For Gibson, BBQ has a way of bringing people together. People from all different backgrounds will buy from the same batch of mutton, BBQ beans, etc. In this spirit, Gibson says, “Even if people don’t know they’re sitting at the table together – they are.”

Bringing people together through BBQ doesn’t stop at his storefront, though. Gibson has observed how Kentucky Tourism is centered around bourbon. When people visit, they often come to Louisville and then to Lexington or the Bourbon Trail. This left Gibson wondering, “How do we get people to this side of the state?”

In a study Gibson conducted over four months, he asked customers where they were coming from and if they were coming just for BBQ. In that time, Thomason’s brought visitors from 25 different states through the doors. With that proof that there is a tourism opportunity there, Gibson seized it with the support of Kentucky Tourism.

With Western Kentucky boasting over 40+ mom and pop BBQ joints, Gibson pushed the culinary passage of the “West Kentucky BBQ Belt.” While there is all kinds of BBQ, from Texas to North Carolina to Memphis style, Gibson says West Kentucky has its own style. 

“I want Thomason’s to be on the map, but in many ways, we already are,” Gibson says. He continues that he is pursuing this to further promote Thomason’s, but also all of West Kentucky BBQ. 

Gibson has faced some challenges in his unapologetic nature of moving through local business politics. Other local gay business owners have urged Gibson to “not ruffle any feathers.” 

The local culture is filled with “the same people doing the same things,” he says. But, in his pink shoes and pink hat, Gibson is changing that. 

The “traditional” West Kentucky BBQ joint specializes in a vinegar-based BBQ dip, mutton, and those sinfully delicious BBQ. Do your stomach and the often-overlooked western part of the state a favor by stopping by.